CYCLING NORWAY
Eric McCaughrin
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Logistics
Norway's population -- 4.5 million -- is less than that of the SF Bay Area. The country also spans a huge territory which means it is sparsely populated outside Bergen and Oslo.
Getting to Norway
Besides the numerous ferry options, Oslo has built a new International Airport in a new location, complete with high-speed rail link. Since it was built after my last visit, I have not had an opportunity to use it, but the train supposedly has plenty of luggage space so bringing a bike onboard should not be a problem. However, unless you have a real burning desire to see Oslo, I would recommend by-passing the city altogether and instead head straight for the mountains. Besides being virtually impossible to leave by bicycle, Oslo is very expensive and has few budget accomodations. My 'bed' at the city's Youth Hostel was nothing more than a spot on a gymnasium floor for which they charged a small fortune.
Getting Around
Unless things have radically changed since my 1997 visit, Norway's highway department is generally hostile to bicycles. One encounters lots of tunnels when going through the mountains and many of these tunnels do not allow bikes. The department does publish a Tunnelguide booklet listing those tunnels allowing bicycles, but I was unable to locate a copy. The department also has a web site providing bicycle information, but (last time I checked) one needed to understand Norwegian to use it. I saw cases where bicyclists were not allowed onto highways and instead had to ride on parallel side streets that climbed way up into the hills. This might have been understandable if the major highway were a busy and dangerous road, but this was done even in cases where the highway had almost no traffic and very wide shoulders. Bringing a bike on the train can be a similarly frustrating experience. While bikes are allowed on many trains, there is a limited number of bikes allowed which means possibly having to wait several days for the bike to be delivered. Perhaps the country should be renamed 'No-way'.


Lodging
Given the huge amount of wilderness, Norway is probably the easiest place in Europe to bike camp. There are also a lot of huts which offer an excellent value. Usually you find them in a person's backyard and at campsites. In addition to a small cot, the huts usually include lighting, a small stove and sink, and sometimes even a refridgerator.
Climate
The mountain chain running down the middle of the country blocks most of the rainy weather; so Bergen will often be cloudy and rainy while the eastern side is warm and sunny. Because of the high latitude, the sun does not set until 10pm during summer months. If biking at high altitude, come prepared with rain gear and warm clothing.


Also see: Touring Tips



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